Komodo to Lombok by boat.

Boat trip to Lombok 9/9/10-13/9/10

As I sit here now there are only a few sounds that surround me. There’s the slapping of the domino cards on the deck as the crew play a lively game adding their calls every now and then of “Mama” as they all refer to me ...There’s the flipping sound every once in a while, as the fish, who have diligently evaded our hooks, surface, laughing at us. And finally, there’s the distant sound of gentle voices from both ours and the nearby boat.

We are at anchor. I am sitting on the upstairs deck which overlooks the scene. Our boat’s destination; Lombok.

We left Labuan-Bajo at ten this morning and our first stop was Rinca Island. Rinca Island is nearby to Komodo and is one of the only other Islands to harbour the infamous Komodo dragons. The island didn’t disappoint.

The dragons are certainly impressive. We arrived when it was hot and the dragons rest in the heat of the day. Several were sleeping under the small house that the rangers reside in. I could only see three, and even though they were so huge there were actually five ,,,,their camouflage is quite incredible.


On a short hike we pass a female guarding her nest, they use the local bush turkeys nest mound and make several false holes and lay their eggs in one. The guide approaches closely and indicates that we should follow to get a better photo. ‘Its ok, they don’t wake up till 3 o’clock’ he tells us; it's 2.45!
 Returning from our hike we see several komodos who have now come ‘alive’. As they proudly parade with their heads held high, it’s only when they face you that you become aware of just how huge and intimidating they really are. Suddenly these docile looking reptiles take on a demeanour of terror: this is no zoo and these are wild creatures!

Snorkelling around these islands is part of our trip. Pantai Merah (red beach) is an amazing stop. The boat anchors in deep water and we swim over the dark drop off onto the reef. With unbelievable visibility the coral here is truly exquisite and the fish variety is awesome. The downside is its cold and I cannot last too long in the water. Reece sees mantas and a stingray. We leave here and venture on to our overnight stop. The water is like a millpond in the sheltered bay. We anchor just off an island with a huge fruit bat colony. Arriving right on dusk the bats are beginning their evening parade into the skies. Dinner arrives miraculously from the rear of the boat.

Komodo Island is much bigger than I expected and so are the dragons. Although we didn’t spot any on our trek we were treated to many wild deer, birds...oh yes a baby komodo in a tree. They live in the trees for the first few years of their lives to escape the hungry awaiting jaws of their parents!

Returning to the main area several are laying around. Apparently they rest here and hang around because of the smell of the kitchen. The rangers insist they don’t feed them....

Again I am amazed at their camouflage(or maybe I’m just blind!!). I think it’s their overall being that somehow mesmerises me, as once again I fail to see one lying quite close to me. I’m too enthralled checking out its mate to notice it and alarm the rangers at my closeness.

Sharing the boat with seven other tourists and a crew of five makes our journey a happy and cruisy one. The crew have adopted me as ‘mamma’. It’s in the early hours when they call it out at the top of their voices, regardless of the sleepers, that I feel like crawling into a hole!! But being on deck before sunrise is awesome and they quickly deliver me tea as we await the sunrise.

I teach English to the crew when things are quiet. One of the men has taken to non-stop studying of my dictionary.....I leave it with him to continue his study and he is delighted. We share a lot of laughs and stories.

We are treated to several great snorkelling spots and on the 3rd day a beautiful waterfall for a much appreciated freshwater shower!!! The uplifted coral reef forming amazing shaped natural pools.

The final morning we start motoring at about 4am. As the sun begins its inevitable, Rinjani (Lombok’s dominating volcano) emerges . Bathed in beautiful pink light and straight ahead of us, it’s a stunning way to start the day. I am captivated by its size and beauty.

We arrive on Lombok several hours later and make our way to Kuta, the beach down south. ....Ax







Kuta Lombok

The whole tourist scene at this other Kuta is so different to the Bali name sake. A totally different world. Quiet, relaxed and slow paced, with great nearby surf spots, amazing headlands at the end of every little cove, we hire a bike and spend the day driving along the coast stopping for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the coast from high on a hill........spectacular

We didn’t get to hang around and enjoy it as we booked a cheap flight to Yogyakarta, prices and availability skyrocketing over the Idul Fitri holiday period. Transport back to Bali takes a whole day- bus, ferry, bemo. Arriving at the other Kuta in grid locked traffic and 6pm madness we walk the 2kms to accommodation. I go and pick up my board and excess baggage that was left with Nyoman Dira. At his house we sit and have kopi, I tell him of our adventures- snorkelling, bus travel, ceremonies and boat trips. He tells me of his similar travels 30yrs ago, ending with ‘you never forget such memories....’. His wife brings an orange juice and tells him I look more skinny and tired. After 2wks on the road you do start to feel it.......R